The Happy Isles of Oceania by Paul Theroux – A Fascinating Journey Through the South Pacific

If you enjoy immersive travel writing with a sharp eye for cultural nuance, The Happy Isles of Oceania: Paddling the Pacific by Paul Theroux is a must-read. This is one of the most enjoyable travel essays I’ve come across in a long time.

Theroux, best known for The Great Railway Bazaar, sets out on an ambitious eighteen-month journey, paddling a collapsible kayak across 51 islands in the South Pacific. His route takes him from the lush rainforests of New Zealand all the way to the shores of Hawaii. Along the way, he explores everything from pristine beaches to shark-infested waters, navigating both the physical and cultural landscapes of each island.

What makes this book stand out is the way Theroux contrasts the different island cultures. From encounters with the king of Tonga to conversations with cargo cult followers in Vanuatu, the narrative is filled with colorful personalities and unexpected adventures. He doesn’t shy away from the grittier aspects either—his time in rough Auckland neighborhoods or polluted harbors brings balance and realism to the romanticized idea of island life.

The Happy Isles of Oceania is an exhilarating, deeply personal, and sometimes humorous account of solo travel in one of the most remote regions of the world. If you’re looking for a rich, thoughtful escape from your everyday routine—or inspiration for your next adventure—this book delivers.

Highly recommended.